To Europeans, Middle Eastern countries often offer mixed feelings. Egypt amplifies these impressions.
On the one hand, there are the chaotic cities, especially Cairo, full of cars running in a deafening traffic of horns, vendors from all sides who stubbornly try to sell anything, and who ask for tips for every reason; poverty, lived with dignity and honesty, but which is very visible to us Europeans.
On the other hand, however, 5000 years of history, precursors of civilization, including the Greek one, stand out overwhelmingly in every corner.
From the majestic Pyramids of Giza to the towering temples of Luxor or Abu Simbel, each site visited is a dive into the grandeur of their civilization. And ours too, because, whether we like it or not, we too come from there.
Cairo, 2nd day of the trip.
Cairo is as we had imagined it: a deafening brothel of traffic and people, between dilapidated buildings alternating with grandiose ones.
The streets with disastrous sidewalks, an infinity of commercial activities that unravel between labyrinthine souks and streets crowded of cars trumpeting for everything.
For sure, with its I don't know how many tens of millions of inhabitants, there will obviously be everything, but in any case the center is very reminiscent of Amman.
The Al Azhar mosque with its university are a point of reference for the Sunni Arab world, both religious and cultural. White, quiet, with its paved courtyard that reflects its geometries and harmonies, with faithful praying and others simply looking for som quiet, it gave us the lightest moment of the day.
The souk is very interesting: there are tourists, but also many inhabitants, so it remains a market oriented towards the local population.
A lot of police everywhere, crowded in vans presents in every widening, armed and with anti-disturbance uniforms. Seemingly oblivious to their surroundings, they are not known to be there to protect people or to protect themselves from people. I don't think we've ever seen so much.
In the evening, we returned to the hotel a little dazed and heavy-headed, after all this mess.
But after all, it was predictable.
Cairo is as we had imagined it: a deafening brothel of traffic and people, between dilapidated buildings alternating with grandiose ones.
The streets with disastrous sidewalks, an infinity of commercial activities that unravel between labyrinthine souks and streets crowded of cars trumpeting for everything.
For sure, with its I don't know how many tens of millions of inhabitants, there will obviously be everything, but in any case the center is very reminiscent of Amman.
The Al Azhar mosque with its university are a point of reference for the Sunni Arab world, both religious and cultural. White, quiet, with its paved courtyard that reflects its geometries and harmonies, with faithful praying and others simply looking for som quiet, it gave us the lightest moment of the day.
The souk is very interesting: there are tourists, but also many inhabitants, so it remains a market oriented towards the local population.
A lot of police everywhere, crowded in vans presents in every widening, armed and with anti-disturbance uniforms. Seemingly oblivious to their surroundings, they are not known to be there to protect people or to protect themselves from people. I don't think we've ever seen so much.
In the evening, we returned to the hotel a little dazed and heavy-headed, after all this mess.
But after all, it was predictable.
Cairo, 3rd day of travel.
As often happens, and in Egypt even more so, people do not go to Giza for its neighborhood but for the 5 millennia of history that overlook it.
The pyramids, imposing and silent, and the famous Sphinx, are certainly fascinating despite the heat and the vendors.
The ticket office is located in a kind of hut; apart from the ticket to access the area, there is a single ticket for each pyramid you want to enter. A somewhat unusual option, but common to all Egyptian archaeological sites. We decide to opt for the simple entrance to the site: entering the pyramids would be too claustrophobic for our tastes. On the other hand, there is not much to see inside.
As soon as we enter, we are kidnapped by one of the various employees (or at least presumed such), who tells us that, although we were a stone's throw from the Sphinx and the pyramid of Cheops, we absolutely have to take a buggy to go to the viewpoint at the end of the road, because the visit starts from there and then proceeds in the backwards. Already forewarned of this kind of "invitations", we kindly tell him that no, that we will start from the neighboring things, and that then we will make do on our own. But nothing to do, he repeats that he has to take the buggy. We repeat to him no, thank you, we don't need it. He insists, not once, but at least three more times, until he resigns himself to our alleged incompetence and leaves annoyed.
The Giza site, however, lives up to expectations. In front of so much greatness and history, one realizes how small everyday life is
There are people but not too many, it is not difficult to let the groups pass. The pyramids are impressive even under the midday sun and the distances between them are not excessive. At every step there is always someone who insists on taking us in a buggy or dromedary, and that each time at least five net refusals are needed, before he gives up. It is a constant to which one must get used to.
As often happens, and in Egypt even more so, people do not go to Giza for its neighborhood but for the 5 millennia of history that overlook it.
The pyramids, imposing and silent, and the famous Sphinx, are certainly fascinating despite the heat and the vendors.
The ticket office is located in a kind of hut; apart from the ticket to access the area, there is a single ticket for each pyramid you want to enter. A somewhat unusual option, but common to all Egyptian archaeological sites. We decide to opt for the simple entrance to the site: entering the pyramids would be too claustrophobic for our tastes. On the other hand, there is not much to see inside.
As soon as we enter, we are kidnapped by one of the various employees (or at least presumed such), who tells us that, although we were a stone's throw from the Sphinx and the pyramid of Cheops, we absolutely have to take a buggy to go to the viewpoint at the end of the road, because the visit starts from there and then proceeds in the backwards. Already forewarned of this kind of "invitations", we kindly tell him that no, that we will start from the neighboring things, and that then we will make do on our own. But nothing to do, he repeats that he has to take the buggy. We repeat to him no, thank you, we don't need it. He insists, not once, but at least three more times, until he resigns himself to our alleged incompetence and leaves annoyed.
The Giza site, however, lives up to expectations. In front of so much greatness and history, one realizes how small everyday life is
There are people but not too many, it is not difficult to let the groups pass. The pyramids are impressive even under the midday sun and the distances between them are not excessive. At every step there is always someone who insists on taking us in a buggy or dromedary, and that each time at least five net refusals are needed, before he gives up. It is a constant to which one must get used to.
The rest of the day passed in a very pleasant way. We went for lunch at Kufu's, an elegant and above all air-conditioned restaurant; It's not every day that you have lunch overlooking the pyramids.
In the afternoon the site was decidedly less crowded and you could walk with serenity. The temperature was also pleasant again. We wandered, even walking in the desert to the viewpoint, from which you have a really crazy view of the three pyramids, complete with dromedaries. It was like being inside one of those lithographs from the Napoleonic era, or in those photos from the early twentieth century. One of those moments that alone are worth the trip. Nothing had changed in the last 300 years.
As mentioned above, we didn't enter the pyramids due to claustrophobia. In any case, the greatest thing is to be there, at the foot of buildings of 5000 years of history. Imagine the building, the people who surrounded them, the burials of people who have made history... The Sphinx is actually smaller than we imagined, but the overall landscape is still incredible.
We returned to Cairo with a local taxi; It was more adrenaline-pumping than an amusement park, for a much lower price. Crazy how there are no fatal accidents every three seconds. I swear that at least three motorcyclists have seen them in my arms! Yet, we arrived at the hotel safe and sound.
Cairo is truly a chaotic and nerve-wracking city, with incredible traffic and shabby buildings. Then all you have to do is go to dinner in an international hotel and suddenly you are in an oasis of peace, with restaurants, boutiques and piano bars, like in a movie set in colonial times.
It is really difficult to get used to the contrasts of these lands.
In the afternoon the site was decidedly less crowded and you could walk with serenity. The temperature was also pleasant again. We wandered, even walking in the desert to the viewpoint, from which you have a really crazy view of the three pyramids, complete with dromedaries. It was like being inside one of those lithographs from the Napoleonic era, or in those photos from the early twentieth century. One of those moments that alone are worth the trip. Nothing had changed in the last 300 years.
As mentioned above, we didn't enter the pyramids due to claustrophobia. In any case, the greatest thing is to be there, at the foot of buildings of 5000 years of history. Imagine the building, the people who surrounded them, the burials of people who have made history... The Sphinx is actually smaller than we imagined, but the overall landscape is still incredible.
We returned to Cairo with a local taxi; It was more adrenaline-pumping than an amusement park, for a much lower price. Crazy how there are no fatal accidents every three seconds. I swear that at least three motorcyclists have seen them in my arms! Yet, we arrived at the hotel safe and sound.
Cairo is truly a chaotic and nerve-wracking city, with incredible traffic and shabby buildings. Then all you have to do is go to dinner in an international hotel and suddenly you are in an oasis of peace, with restaurants, boutiques and piano bars, like in a movie set in colonial times.
It is really difficult to get used to the contrasts of these lands.
Cairo, 4th day of travel.
Excursion to Saqqara, Memphis and Dahshur.
Quite tiring excursion, all under the sun. It's not very hot, but it's very dry and there's not a shroud of shade.
We did not know that in addition to the ticket that gives access to the site, there are also a series of separate tickets. Moreover, if you wanted to buy them all, you would spend a fortune, so you would have to arrive with clear ideas about what you want to visit. You would end up buying blindly, while instead it would be nice to be able to decide from time to time. Added to this is the fact that the ticket office is very far from the site, so once inside it is in fact impossible to return.
So, we found ourselves having to bribe the various caretakers so that they would let us enter the places we were interested in. We arrived with a slightly naïve air and, when they told us that we needed a specific ticket, we made an astonished expression and wondered if we couldn't buy it from him. He asked us for some money and let us pass. We don't really like these things, but it must be said that they have helped.
In any case, the site of Saqqara is very interesting. From the parking lot you have a beautiful perspective on the walls that surround it. It is accessed through a very suggestive colonnade, which leads to a sunny esplanade where the Djoser pyramid overlooks, with a stepped surface, not as smooth as the others, since it is older and the technique had not yet been perfected. It is not very big, but it certainly has an effect, also thanks to the low number of visitors. You can say that it emanates its energy.
Unlike the others, it has a very large rear access tunnel, suitable for everyone, and so we were able to enter it. It was the first time we had the opportunity to enter one of these buildings, and we were excited; even if the tunnel is not very long and has no decorations, it still gave us the thrill of literally being inside millennia of history.
Excursion to Saqqara, Memphis and Dahshur.
Quite tiring excursion, all under the sun. It's not very hot, but it's very dry and there's not a shroud of shade.
We did not know that in addition to the ticket that gives access to the site, there are also a series of separate tickets. Moreover, if you wanted to buy them all, you would spend a fortune, so you would have to arrive with clear ideas about what you want to visit. You would end up buying blindly, while instead it would be nice to be able to decide from time to time. Added to this is the fact that the ticket office is very far from the site, so once inside it is in fact impossible to return.
So, we found ourselves having to bribe the various caretakers so that they would let us enter the places we were interested in. We arrived with a slightly naïve air and, when they told us that we needed a specific ticket, we made an astonished expression and wondered if we couldn't buy it from him. He asked us for some money and let us pass. We don't really like these things, but it must be said that they have helped.
In any case, the site of Saqqara is very interesting. From the parking lot you have a beautiful perspective on the walls that surround it. It is accessed through a very suggestive colonnade, which leads to a sunny esplanade where the Djoser pyramid overlooks, with a stepped surface, not as smooth as the others, since it is older and the technique had not yet been perfected. It is not very big, but it certainly has an effect, also thanks to the low number of visitors. You can say that it emanates its energy.
Unlike the others, it has a very large rear access tunnel, suitable for everyone, and so we were able to enter it. It was the first time we had the opportunity to enter one of these buildings, and we were excited; even if the tunnel is not very long and has no decorations, it still gave us the thrill of literally being inside millennia of history.
The site of Saqqara is still being excavated, and as a result new discoveries continue to come to light. In fact, in addition to the step pyramid, you could visit an infinite number of tombs and mastabas, so much so that an attentive visitor could need a whole day.
We have limited ourselves to the tomb of Maya, found in 1986, where this high-ranking person in charge of collecting taxes was buried.
To get there you have to follow a path in the middle of the desert, and several times we wondered if we had taken the wrong road. Arriving at the tomb, we entered this beautiful environment, adorned with graffiti and paintings, including one that portrays Maya himself. It was the first time we visited a tomb, and the emotion was strong: you literally travel back in time.
In the afternoon, the driver took us to the two pyramids of Snefru: the red one and the rhomboid one.
The first has a long ascending corridor of 65 meters, to be walked crouching, which leads to two chambers and a burial room. There is not much to see, but the thrill of emulating Indiana Jones is guaranteed, even if the tunnel is really challenging, especially uphill.
Finally, we went to where Memphis, the capital of Lower Egypt, stood. Nothing remains, but in a museum is kept the colossus of Ramesses II, 10 meters long, kept lying down.
Back in Cairo, we stopped for lunch in an unthinkable restaurant where all the tourist groups go, very spartan but with excellent grilled meat.
We have limited ourselves to the tomb of Maya, found in 1986, where this high-ranking person in charge of collecting taxes was buried.
To get there you have to follow a path in the middle of the desert, and several times we wondered if we had taken the wrong road. Arriving at the tomb, we entered this beautiful environment, adorned with graffiti and paintings, including one that portrays Maya himself. It was the first time we visited a tomb, and the emotion was strong: you literally travel back in time.
In the afternoon, the driver took us to the two pyramids of Snefru: the red one and the rhomboid one.
The first has a long ascending corridor of 65 meters, to be walked crouching, which leads to two chambers and a burial room. There is not much to see, but the thrill of emulating Indiana Jones is guaranteed, even if the tunnel is really challenging, especially uphill.
Finally, we went to where Memphis, the capital of Lower Egypt, stood. Nothing remains, but in a museum is kept the colossus of Ramesses II, 10 meters long, kept lying down.
Back in Cairo, we stopped for lunch in an unthinkable restaurant where all the tourist groups go, very spartan but with excellent grilled meat.
Cairo, 5th day of travel
As good Turinese, having the second largest Egyptian museum in the world at home, we had been dreaming of entering the first, the one in Cairo, for a long time.
Despite the crowds and lack of air conditioning, it's definitely worth it. Let's say that the museum itself seems to have come out of the nineteenth century, with those wooden display cases, dirty glass and a thick layer of dust covering the exhibits. But it is undoubtedly unmissable.
Some artifacts have already been moved to the new museum in Giza, which promises to be a very modern structure; Most of them, however, remain in the old exhibition space, which remains a must-see.
Many finds that attracted our attention.
Among them, this statue depicting Ramses II, one of the most powerful and iconic pharaohs in Egyptian history. The pharaoh is represented standing, with a regal and proud appearance. He wears the distinctive striped nemes headdress, topped with a double crown symbolizing rule over Upper and Lower Egypt. In the center of the headdress you can see the uraeus, the king cobra, a symbol of divine protection and sovereign power. The features of the face, such as the pronounced nose and well-defined lips, reflect the classic style of pharaonic representations that tends to idealize the appearance of the sovereign, accentuating his divine and supernatural appearance. On the shoulders and chest you can see hieroglyphic inscriptions, which often bear the name of the pharaoh and honorific titles. These details testify to the sacred role of the pharaoh, seen not only as a political leader but also as a divine figure, mediator between the gods and the Egyptian people. This statue probably comes from a temple and served to emphasize the presence of the pharaoh even in physical absence, guaranteeing spiritual protection.
As good Turinese, having the second largest Egyptian museum in the world at home, we had been dreaming of entering the first, the one in Cairo, for a long time.
Despite the crowds and lack of air conditioning, it's definitely worth it. Let's say that the museum itself seems to have come out of the nineteenth century, with those wooden display cases, dirty glass and a thick layer of dust covering the exhibits. But it is undoubtedly unmissable.
Some artifacts have already been moved to the new museum in Giza, which promises to be a very modern structure; Most of them, however, remain in the old exhibition space, which remains a must-see.
Many finds that attracted our attention.
Among them, this statue depicting Ramses II, one of the most powerful and iconic pharaohs in Egyptian history. The pharaoh is represented standing, with a regal and proud appearance. He wears the distinctive striped nemes headdress, topped with a double crown symbolizing rule over Upper and Lower Egypt. In the center of the headdress you can see the uraeus, the king cobra, a symbol of divine protection and sovereign power. The features of the face, such as the pronounced nose and well-defined lips, reflect the classic style of pharaonic representations that tends to idealize the appearance of the sovereign, accentuating his divine and supernatural appearance. On the shoulders and chest you can see hieroglyphic inscriptions, which often bear the name of the pharaoh and honorific titles. These details testify to the sacred role of the pharaoh, seen not only as a political leader but also as a divine figure, mediator between the gods and the Egyptian people. This statue probably comes from a temple and served to emphasize the presence of the pharaoh even in physical absence, guaranteeing spiritual protection.
This is the famous Narmer Tablet, one of the oldest and most fascinating pieces in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Dating back to about 3100 BC, it represents the pharaoh Narmer, considered the first unifier of Upper and Lower Egypt. The tablet tells the story of Narmer's victory, with intricate and symbolic details that celebrate his power and authority.
A true masterpiece of Egyptian art, this tablet bears witness to one of the oldest civilizations in history. Observing this find up close means taking a trip back in time, to the roots of Egyptian culture and power
A true masterpiece of Egyptian art, this tablet bears witness to one of the oldest civilizations in history. Observing this find up close means taking a trip back in time, to the roots of Egyptian culture and power
This black stone bust represents a pharaoh from Ancient Egypt, with the characteristic high crown symbolizing power and royalty. The enigmatic gaze and precisely sculpted features convey a sense of timeless authority. This piece, with its austere elegance, is an incredible example of the art and sculptural skill of the ancient Egyptians.
Observing this face is like immersing yourself in the thousand-year history of Egypt, a kingdom of pharaohs and gods that still fascinates the world today.
Observing this face is like immersing yourself in the thousand-year history of Egypt, a kingdom of pharaohs and gods that still fascinates the world today.
This imposing statue represents a pharaoh, the supreme symbol of power and authority in ancient Egypt. Made of stone, it shows the pharaoh standing, with a proud look and the classic fake beard, a hallmark of royalty. The crown and statuesque posture evoke a timeless majesty, which fascinates and inspires respect.
Being in front of this masterpiece is like taking a step back in time, to a time when the pharaohs ruled as intermediaries between the gods and the people. An extraordinary piece that embodies the greatness and mystery of a thousand-year-old civilization
Being in front of this masterpiece is like taking a step back in time, to a time when the pharaohs ruled as intermediaries between the gods and the people. An extraordinary piece that embodies the greatness and mystery of a thousand-year-old civilization
Without a doubt, the star of the museum is Tutankhamun's treasure, or the funeral trousseau of this pharaoh who died at the age of 19. The tomb was discovered in 1922 in the Valley of the Kings, and still preserved its precious contents. The golden sarcophagus is truly stunning and refined.
But the absolute star of the room is Tutankhamun's funerary mask, in solid gold, encrusted with lapis lazuli, quartz and blue glass paste. It is a work of unique refinement.
Leaving the museum, we went to the hotel to pick up our luggage and, with another tormented taxi ride, we went to the central station to take the night train to Luxor. We were somewhat dubious about this choice: we read a little bit of everything, and not always well.
The train looked like it came out of the 80s and maybe it really was. It wasn't dirty and the dinner was decent. There was a carriage of armed soldiers at the beginning and one at the end of the convoy. The compartment next to it was occupied by a group of very noisy Chinese. The shock absorbers between the carriages were in fact non-existent, so it was impossible not to notice every time you started or stopped. Anyway, we arrived in Luxor.
Leaving the museum, we went to the hotel to pick up our luggage and, with another tormented taxi ride, we went to the central station to take the night train to Luxor. We were somewhat dubious about this choice: we read a little bit of everything, and not always well.
The train looked like it came out of the 80s and maybe it really was. It wasn't dirty and the dinner was decent. There was a carriage of armed soldiers at the beginning and one at the end of the convoy. The compartment next to it was occupied by a group of very noisy Chinese. The shock absorbers between the carriages were in fact non-existent, so it was impossible not to notice every time you started or stopped. Anyway, we arrived in Luxor.
Luxor, 6th day of travel.
In the end, we arrived in Luxor: a little tossed, a little sleepless, a little late, but arrived.
The accommodation is beautiful: a small villa in the countryside, quiet and well cared for, fresh and spacious. Four rooms run by a small group of people who could have come out of a movie: Mohammed, the manager, Ibrahim, a handyman, and a driver to run the guests. It is located in a small farmers' village with dirt roads, crossed by irrigation canals. Out of the way, but pleasant and relaxing.
Once we took possession of the room, we were accompanied to the monumental complex of Karnak. We would have liked to buy the pass that gives access to all the monuments, but we couldn't because one of the banknotes had a small scribble and they didn't accept it.
In any case, the temple of Karnak is fabulous, especially for the state of preservation of both the structures and the colors. Crowded but not too busy. The jewel in the crown, the large hypostyle hall has 134 columns, and looks like a spectacular forest of gigantic papyri; those of the central nave measure the beauty of 23 meters.
In the end, we arrived in Luxor: a little tossed, a little sleepless, a little late, but arrived.
The accommodation is beautiful: a small villa in the countryside, quiet and well cared for, fresh and spacious. Four rooms run by a small group of people who could have come out of a movie: Mohammed, the manager, Ibrahim, a handyman, and a driver to run the guests. It is located in a small farmers' village with dirt roads, crossed by irrigation canals. Out of the way, but pleasant and relaxing.
Once we took possession of the room, we were accompanied to the monumental complex of Karnak. We would have liked to buy the pass that gives access to all the monuments, but we couldn't because one of the banknotes had a small scribble and they didn't accept it.
In any case, the temple of Karnak is fabulous, especially for the state of preservation of both the structures and the colors. Crowded but not too busy. The jewel in the crown, the large hypostyle hall has 134 columns, and looks like a spectacular forest of gigantic papyri; those of the central nave measure the beauty of 23 meters.
Leaving Karnak, we thought of walking towards the center under a scorching sun, thinking that all in all the riverfront (the "corniche") was worth it; it was the first time we had the opportunity to walk alongside the Nile.
In the end, we found a typical restaurant with a cool terrace, where we had lunch and rested while waiting for the city museum to open.
It is a small museum, but air-conditioned, uncrowded and well cared for. Few rooms but which allow you to fully appreciate the exhibits on display.
We went out just in time to enjoy a fantastic sunset over the Nile (the first of a long series), we were picked up by the driver of the Hotel and had dinner there, dead tired.
In the end, we found a typical restaurant with a cool terrace, where we had lunch and rested while waiting for the city museum to open.
It is a small museum, but air-conditioned, uncrowded and well cared for. Few rooms but which allow you to fully appreciate the exhibits on display.
We went out just in time to enjoy a fantastic sunset over the Nile (the first of a long series), we were picked up by the driver of the Hotel and had dinner there, dead tired.
Luxor, 7th day of travel.
Today we visited the Valley of the Kings and some of the sites in the eastern area.
Early in the morning, we walked to the colossi of Memnon. These are two statues more than 16 meters high, representing King Amenhotep III. In 27 BC an earthquake caused a crack in one of the two statues which, at dawn, when the stone dried up from the humidity of the night, emitted a sound similar to the vibration of a guitar string. From there the legend was born according to which the statue represented Memnon, who greeted his mother Aurora every morning. The two statues form part of a vast mortuary temple, but still under excavation.
Today we visited the Valley of the Kings and some of the sites in the eastern area.
Early in the morning, we walked to the colossi of Memnon. These are two statues more than 16 meters high, representing King Amenhotep III. In 27 BC an earthquake caused a crack in one of the two statues which, at dawn, when the stone dried up from the humidity of the night, emitted a sound similar to the vibration of a guitar string. From there the legend was born according to which the statue represented Memnon, who greeted his mother Aurora every morning. The two statues form part of a vast mortuary temple, but still under excavation.
We then left the colossi of Memnon for the Ramesseum.
On paper it is only a thirty-minute walk, but we soon realized that moving from one place to another is quite tiring, both because of the sun that beats down already at 10 in the morning, and because you almost always walk through remote areas. Moreover, the ticket office for these sites is half-hidden and far from everything, and we blissfully ignored it despite a taxi driver shouting directions at us.
Arrived at the Ramesseum, we were thus forced to sadly go back to buy tickets. We have therefore started to use taxis more, which are cheap and easy to find; more correctly, they find us easily, since it is enough to start walking and immediately someone offers a ride. The most difficult thing is to make the taxi driver understand that he simply needs a single ride, and not a guide for the whole day...
The mortuary temple of Ramesses II still retains traces of its former glory, despite having been used as a quarry. Inside there are the remains of a large statue, now fallen and fractured, which inspired Byron to write an elegy on the futility of earthly power. The site is very vast, and it is still a pleasure to explore it.
On paper it is only a thirty-minute walk, but we soon realized that moving from one place to another is quite tiring, both because of the sun that beats down already at 10 in the morning, and because you almost always walk through remote areas. Moreover, the ticket office for these sites is half-hidden and far from everything, and we blissfully ignored it despite a taxi driver shouting directions at us.
Arrived at the Ramesseum, we were thus forced to sadly go back to buy tickets. We have therefore started to use taxis more, which are cheap and easy to find; more correctly, they find us easily, since it is enough to start walking and immediately someone offers a ride. The most difficult thing is to make the taxi driver understand that he simply needs a single ride, and not a guide for the whole day...
The mortuary temple of Ramesses II still retains traces of its former glory, despite having been used as a quarry. Inside there are the remains of a large statue, now fallen and fractured, which inspired Byron to write an elegy on the futility of earthly power. The site is very vast, and it is still a pleasure to explore it.
After exploring the Ramesseum, still by taxi, we headed towards the valley of the Kings, an area full of tombs of various pharaohs, all unfortunately exported to the midday sun. Fortunately, the sites are not far from each other, and the visit is easy.
The first tomb we entered was that of Tutankhamun, the most famous, although the fame is mainly due to the fabulous treasure exhibited in Cairo than to the decorations in situ, quite modest since the pharaoh died young and quickly, so there was little time to prepare the tomb. His mummy, however, continues to rest there.
The jewel in the crown of the valley, however, are the other tomre. Moreover, in many cases we have happened to be alone in the tombs, and it is an unforgettable experience. Many are rich in ornaments, with colors so sharp that it seems impossible that they are millennia old.
The first tomb we entered was that of Tutankhamun, the most famous, although the fame is mainly due to the fabulous treasure exhibited in Cairo than to the decorations in situ, quite modest since the pharaoh died young and quickly, so there was little time to prepare the tomb. His mummy, however, continues to rest there.
The jewel in the crown of the valley, however, are the other tomre. Moreover, in many cases we have happened to be alone in the tombs, and it is an unforgettable experience. Many are rich in ornaments, with colors so sharp that it seems impossible that they are millennia old.
We are inside one of the extraordinary tombs of the Valley of the Kings, in Luxor, where history comes to life through incredible wall decorations. In this scene, the pharaoh is portrayed paying homage to an Egyptian deity, perhaps Isis or Hathor, symbolizing protection and rebirth.
The details of the paintings are fascinating: vivid colors that, after millennia, still speak to us of the mastery of Egyptian artists and the depth of their religious beliefs. Each symbol, hieroglyph and posture tells a story of journey to the afterlife, of hope and eternal connection with the divine.
A masterpiece that pays homage to the greatness of Ancient Egypt and leaves anyone lucky enough to admire it breathless.
The details of the paintings are fascinating: vivid colors that, after millennia, still speak to us of the mastery of Egyptian artists and the depth of their religious beliefs. Each symbol, hieroglyph and posture tells a story of journey to the afterlife, of hope and eternal connection with the divine.
A masterpiece that pays homage to the greatness of Ancient Egypt and leaves anyone lucky enough to admire it breathless.
The lighting is really well thought out. The points of light, placed at the base of the walls, highlight the three-dimensionality of the petroglyphs, making them so expressive that they seem alive. The time invested in visiting these thousand-year-old tombs undoubtedly repays the efforts of the journey.
This extraordinary decorative scene, captured inside one of the tombs of the Valley of the Kings in Luxor, represents a dialogue between the pharaoh and the gods. The meticulous details and vibrant colors, still visible today, testify to the craftsmanship and spirituality of Ancient Egypt.
Each figure, with its solemn and symbolic gestures, embodies the deep bond between man and the divine, a journey to eternity in which Egyptian royalty sought the protection and guidance of the gods in the realm of the afterlife.
A place where the past seems to come to life, and the charm of Ancient Egypt envelops us with its mystery
Each figure, with its solemn and symbolic gestures, embodies the deep bond between man and the divine, a journey to eternity in which Egyptian royalty sought the protection and guidance of the gods in the realm of the afterlife.
A place where the past seems to come to life, and the charm of Ancient Egypt envelops us with its mystery
Finally, we were taken to the Medinet Habu complex, a grandiose structure that includes two temples, and which was also an important administrative center.
The surprise was a small restaurant located in front of the entrance. An extremely rustic place, but which offered a cool shade and good food, as well as the best espresso coffee in all of Egypt. In the following days it became our point of reference, also being relatively close to the hotel.
Back to "Villa Hatshepsut", we crossed the village, made up of low houses in the middle of dirt alleys. All very quiet. People are always a bit insistent, but you get used to it. More than anything else, we are really the only foreigners to walk on these streets, so everyone notices us.
The surprise was a small restaurant located in front of the entrance. An extremely rustic place, but which offered a cool shade and good food, as well as the best espresso coffee in all of Egypt. In the following days it became our point of reference, also being relatively close to the hotel.
Back to "Villa Hatshepsut", we crossed the village, made up of low houses in the middle of dirt alleys. All very quiet. People are always a bit insistent, but you get used to it. More than anything else, we are really the only foreigners to walk on these streets, so everyone notices us.
Luxor, Journey Day 8
Today we visited other temples and tombs: the valley of the Queens, Hatshepsut, the temple of Luxor...
We continued to use taxis for the various trips: they are cheap and avoid long walks under the sun.
The visits are always interesting. Many of the places visited today were discovered by Schiapparelli, the founder of the Egyptian museum in Turin. It is impressive to think about it, being us from Turin
The Valley of the Queens is spectacular. It consists of about eighty tombs, some unfinished, others deteriorated, others looted; the intact ones, however, show accurate and detailed paintings. The most beautiful of all would be that of Nefertari, it's just a pity that from March 2024 it will be closed to the public. It had to be wonderful.
Today we visited other temples and tombs: the valley of the Queens, Hatshepsut, the temple of Luxor...
We continued to use taxis for the various trips: they are cheap and avoid long walks under the sun.
The visits are always interesting. Many of the places visited today were discovered by Schiapparelli, the founder of the Egyptian museum in Turin. It is impressive to think about it, being us from Turin
The Valley of the Queens is spectacular. It consists of about eighty tombs, some unfinished, others deteriorated, others looted; the intact ones, however, show accurate and detailed paintings. The most beautiful of all would be that of Nefertari, it's just a pity that from March 2024 it will be closed to the public. It had to be wonderful.
In the afternoon, after lunch, we enjoyed a fantastic sunset over the Nile, a time when the river shows all its magic. The dunes in the background, red and warm, the blue and the coolness of the water that contrast. Its very immensity is intimidating; We have never seen such a large waterway. The feluccas and boats that ply it recreate an image that has remained almost unchanged over the millennia.
Before dinner we visited the Luxor temple, open until late. It was the only night visit of the whole trip, as the sites inexplicably close early, around 5 pm. Too bad, because with the cool of the evening and the appropriate lighting, it must be wonderful. Finally, we returned to the hotel.
The village where we are staying is very nice. They have dirt roads and few inhabitants, in the middle of the countryside that flanks the Nile. People say goodbye but without wanting to sell anything. There is also a pleasant little restaurant not far away.
The manager (or owner) of the hotel told us that he is doing dialysis, and that he needs a kidney transplant but that in Egypt the health care is not public and the transplant costs € 150,000! It's amazing. And if you don't have them, you're left without. We Europeans are very lucky, and we often do not know how to appreciate it.
Before dinner we visited the Luxor temple, open until late. It was the only night visit of the whole trip, as the sites inexplicably close early, around 5 pm. Too bad, because with the cool of the evening and the appropriate lighting, it must be wonderful. Finally, we returned to the hotel.
The village where we are staying is very nice. They have dirt roads and few inhabitants, in the middle of the countryside that flanks the Nile. People say goodbye but without wanting to sell anything. There is also a pleasant little restaurant not far away.
The manager (or owner) of the hotel told us that he is doing dialysis, and that he needs a kidney transplant but that in Egypt the health care is not public and the transplant costs € 150,000! It's amazing. And if you don't have them, you're left without. We Europeans are very lucky, and we often do not know how to appreciate it.
Luxor, 9th day of travel.
This morning we visited the Temple of Dendera, located about an hour north of Luxor. It is one of the best-preserved temple complexes in ancient Egypt, dedicated to the goddess Hathor, deity of love and fertility.
The temple is famous for its massive columns and intricate decorations, which include depictions of Cleopatra VII and her son, Caesarion. In addition, the complex houses a copy of the famous Dendera Zodiac, an ancient astronomical relief whose original is in the Louvre Museum in Paris.
Having been rebuilt in the Ptolemaic era and then again in the Roman era, the temple is relatively recent compared to the average, which contributes to its good preservation. Unfortunately, the decorations are not as well preserved, but the site is still interesting.
In the afternoon we wanted to take a walk towards the Nile. We stay in a small farming village on the western side of the river. With no tourists, the village offers an authentic insight into Egyptian life. Many homes have traditional ovens in the yards, as well as goats and other animals. The roads are almost all of earth, and the village is crossed by a tangle of irrigation ditches. Unfortunately, public lighting is almost non-existent and therefore, with the sunset imminent, we had to give up our walk.
This morning we visited the Temple of Dendera, located about an hour north of Luxor. It is one of the best-preserved temple complexes in ancient Egypt, dedicated to the goddess Hathor, deity of love and fertility.
The temple is famous for its massive columns and intricate decorations, which include depictions of Cleopatra VII and her son, Caesarion. In addition, the complex houses a copy of the famous Dendera Zodiac, an ancient astronomical relief whose original is in the Louvre Museum in Paris.
Having been rebuilt in the Ptolemaic era and then again in the Roman era, the temple is relatively recent compared to the average, which contributes to its good preservation. Unfortunately, the decorations are not as well preserved, but the site is still interesting.
In the afternoon we wanted to take a walk towards the Nile. We stay in a small farming village on the western side of the river. With no tourists, the village offers an authentic insight into Egyptian life. Many homes have traditional ovens in the yards, as well as goats and other animals. The roads are almost all of earth, and the village is crossed by a tangle of irrigation ditches. Unfortunately, public lighting is almost non-existent and therefore, with the sunset imminent, we had to give up our walk.
Markaz Idfou, Nile, Trip Day 10
Today we started the Nile cruise. The group is very small: we are about ten passengers compared to a dozen crew members. The room is really nice, although unfortunately the generator that powers the air conditioning is turned on only when moving and a couple of hours after dinner. The meals are buffet style and delicious, as are the desserts. The other cruise companions are all English-speaking.
Sailing on the Nile is very pleasant. The coast south of Luxor is substantially uninhabited, except for small peasant villages, so you move in silence between the green shores of vegetation and the desert hills immediately behind. The miracle of a huge river that cuts through one of the largest deserts in the world: it sounds like a fantasy story, yet the Nile is just that, and has been for 5 thousand years.
Everything is very relaxed, even the pace of travel, even if it is a bit of a hassle for us not to be independent and to have to submit to schedules decided by others.
In the morning, we visited the Temple of Esna. Located in the city of Esna along the banks of the Nile, it is one of the lesser-known treasures of ancient Egypt. This temple is dedicated to Khnum, the ram-headed god, who is considered the creator and god of fertility. The columns of the hypostyle hall, 13.30 meters high, are decorated with reliefs detailing the festivals of the sacred calendar of Esna.
Today we started the Nile cruise. The group is very small: we are about ten passengers compared to a dozen crew members. The room is really nice, although unfortunately the generator that powers the air conditioning is turned on only when moving and a couple of hours after dinner. The meals are buffet style and delicious, as are the desserts. The other cruise companions are all English-speaking.
Sailing on the Nile is very pleasant. The coast south of Luxor is substantially uninhabited, except for small peasant villages, so you move in silence between the green shores of vegetation and the desert hills immediately behind. The miracle of a huge river that cuts through one of the largest deserts in the world: it sounds like a fantasy story, yet the Nile is just that, and has been for 5 thousand years.
Everything is very relaxed, even the pace of travel, even if it is a bit of a hassle for us not to be independent and to have to submit to schedules decided by others.
In the morning, we visited the Temple of Esna. Located in the city of Esna along the banks of the Nile, it is one of the lesser-known treasures of ancient Egypt. This temple is dedicated to Khnum, the ram-headed god, who is considered the creator and god of fertility. The columns of the hypostyle hall, 13.30 meters high, are decorated with reliefs detailing the festivals of the sacred calendar of Esna.
In the afternoon we arrived in Edfu. The Temple of Horus in Edfu is known for its impressive architecture and intricate decorations. Built mainly during the Ptolemaic period, the temple measures about 140 meters in length and occupies an area of about 7,000 square meters2. The structure consists of an entrance pylon, a large courtyard, a hypostyle hall with twelve columns, and a sanctuary where the statue of the falcon god was located.
The temple is decorated with detailed reliefs depicting religious, mythological, and astronomical scenes. Some of the most notable highlights include the procession of the solar boats and the annual festival of Opet
The temple is decorated with detailed reliefs depicting religious, mythological, and astronomical scenes. Some of the most notable highlights include the procession of the solar boats and the annual festival of Opet
Salwá Bahrī, Nile, 11th day of travel.
Sailing on the Nile is a bit like traveling on a slow train, which allows you to enjoy the scenery. This journey from north to south, entering more and more into Africa, allows you to appreciate the slow changes in the surrounding environment. The complexion of the people becomes darker and darker and the features more African. The banks are less and less inhabited, surrounded by vegetation and a few sparse villages. The Nile is getting bigger and bigger, with this paradox of a river that starts with more water than it has at its mouth. We have never seen such a large river, it really is an expanse of water.
It is fascinating to watch the Near East transform into Africa little by little. We continue to visit temples, tombs and attend performances. Today, for example, we stopped in a village and went out on a boat with the fishermen to see their techniques; In practice, they first spread a net along a stretch of the river and then scare the fish so that they can get in. We also watched the bread being made in a traditional dried mud oven. All very interesting.
And in any case, this slow pace is fascinating.
Sailing on the Nile is a bit like traveling on a slow train, which allows you to enjoy the scenery. This journey from north to south, entering more and more into Africa, allows you to appreciate the slow changes in the surrounding environment. The complexion of the people becomes darker and darker and the features more African. The banks are less and less inhabited, surrounded by vegetation and a few sparse villages. The Nile is getting bigger and bigger, with this paradox of a river that starts with more water than it has at its mouth. We have never seen such a large river, it really is an expanse of water.
It is fascinating to watch the Near East transform into Africa little by little. We continue to visit temples, tombs and attend performances. Today, for example, we stopped in a village and went out on a boat with the fishermen to see their techniques; In practice, they first spread a net along a stretch of the river and then scare the fish so that they can get in. We also watched the bread being made in a traditional dried mud oven. All very interesting.
And in any case, this slow pace is fascinating.
Markaz Draw, Nile, 12th day of the trip.
Another day of sailing. The Nile continues to offer increasingly authentic landscapes, where the human presence is still hidden far from the banks.
In the morning we visited a small village located on an island in the river, with dirt roads and people living on agriculture and livestock. The houses, although poor and in poor condition, are clean and well maintained. There is even a small school, with a single class for all children. People do indeed appear poor but very dignified.
Another day of sailing. The Nile continues to offer increasingly authentic landscapes, where the human presence is still hidden far from the banks.
In the morning we visited a small village located on an island in the river, with dirt roads and people living on agriculture and livestock. The houses, although poor and in poor condition, are clean and well maintained. There is even a small school, with a single class for all children. People do indeed appear poor but very dignified.
Aswan, 13th day of travel
Last day of sailing. It was relaxing to see Egypt from a dahabiaya, one of the typical boats. The approach is completely different from when we shoot on our own. Here you bring your own personal hotel, in which there were only nine of us, fully served. You go out for targeted excursions, where you can admire the archaeological beauties without the burden of walking and stress. There are also visits to families, markets and fishermen, but always in total comfort. A totally different feeling, seen from the dahabiya.
In the morning we visited the temple of Kom Ombo.
The Temple of Kom Ombo, located in the city of Kom Ombo in Upper Egypt, is a one-of-a-kind temple. Built during the Ptolemaic dynasty between 180 and 47 BC, the temple is known for its "double" structure that houses two symmetrical shrines dedicated to two different triads of deities.
The southern part of the temple is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god of fertility, along with Hathor and Khonsu. The northern part, on the other hand, is dedicated to Haroeris (Horus the Elder), Tasenetnofret and Panebtawy. This symmetry is reflected in every aspect of the temple, from the courtyards to the halls to the shrines themselves.
The temple is also famous for its reliefs and texts that describe cultic liturgies and scenes of daily life. An interesting detail is the representation of surgical instruments on one of the interior walls
Despite the damage caused by the Nile, earthquakes, and the use of its stones for other construction, the temple still retains much of its ancient charm. Also nearby is the Crocodile Museum, which displays some of the crocodile mummies discovered in the area.
Last day of sailing. It was relaxing to see Egypt from a dahabiaya, one of the typical boats. The approach is completely different from when we shoot on our own. Here you bring your own personal hotel, in which there were only nine of us, fully served. You go out for targeted excursions, where you can admire the archaeological beauties without the burden of walking and stress. There are also visits to families, markets and fishermen, but always in total comfort. A totally different feeling, seen from the dahabiya.
In the morning we visited the temple of Kom Ombo.
The Temple of Kom Ombo, located in the city of Kom Ombo in Upper Egypt, is a one-of-a-kind temple. Built during the Ptolemaic dynasty between 180 and 47 BC, the temple is known for its "double" structure that houses two symmetrical shrines dedicated to two different triads of deities.
The southern part of the temple is dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god of fertility, along with Hathor and Khonsu. The northern part, on the other hand, is dedicated to Haroeris (Horus the Elder), Tasenetnofret and Panebtawy. This symmetry is reflected in every aspect of the temple, from the courtyards to the halls to the shrines themselves.
The temple is also famous for its reliefs and texts that describe cultic liturgies and scenes of daily life. An interesting detail is the representation of surgical instruments on one of the interior walls
Despite the damage caused by the Nile, earthquakes, and the use of its stones for other construction, the temple still retains much of its ancient charm. Also nearby is the Crocodile Museum, which displays some of the crocodile mummies discovered in the area.
We visited the crocodile museum, with some mummified specimens, as well as the village market, crowded and chaotic.
In the evening we stopped on a small sandy beach, where we bathed in the Nile and observed the local fauna.
In the evening we stopped on a small sandy beach, where we bathed in the Nile and observed the local fauna.
Aswan, Voyage Day 14
Almost at the end of our journey, Aswan welcomes us with its unique charm. This border town, which has grown thanks to tourism, shows a character reminiscent of the sub-Saharan cities seen on television. The dirt and sand streets and the lived-in look of the buildings tell a story of authenticity and everyday life. The riverfront retains its charm, offering suggestive views. Elephantine Island, while also very touristy, exudes a rustic charm with its sandy alleys and traditional houses.
There are a few luxurious hotels, harmoniously integrated into the local context, creating a fascinating contrast. We chose a guesthouse on the western side, with an enchanting view of the city. Getting there by ferry, sharing the journey with the locals, is a unique experience that adds authenticity to our stay. Once disembarked, the vegetation quickly gives way to the sand of the Sahara, creating a breathtaking panorama.
The guesthouse, although modest, is cozy. Our room is new and the bathroom, although external, is for exclusive use. The manager, although he speaks little English, is always helpful and kind. Although there are challenges such as the view of the less well-kept houses and some small inconveniences such as ants, we have adapted and enjoy the authentic atmosphere of the place. The nearby minaret reminds us of Friday prayers, a cultural touch that enriches our experience.
We cannot deny that the poverty of the country surprised us, but the trip offered us valuable lessons in humility and gratitude.
Almost at the end of our journey, Aswan welcomes us with its unique charm. This border town, which has grown thanks to tourism, shows a character reminiscent of the sub-Saharan cities seen on television. The dirt and sand streets and the lived-in look of the buildings tell a story of authenticity and everyday life. The riverfront retains its charm, offering suggestive views. Elephantine Island, while also very touristy, exudes a rustic charm with its sandy alleys and traditional houses.
There are a few luxurious hotels, harmoniously integrated into the local context, creating a fascinating contrast. We chose a guesthouse on the western side, with an enchanting view of the city. Getting there by ferry, sharing the journey with the locals, is a unique experience that adds authenticity to our stay. Once disembarked, the vegetation quickly gives way to the sand of the Sahara, creating a breathtaking panorama.
The guesthouse, although modest, is cozy. Our room is new and the bathroom, although external, is for exclusive use. The manager, although he speaks little English, is always helpful and kind. Although there are challenges such as the view of the less well-kept houses and some small inconveniences such as ants, we have adapted and enjoy the authentic atmosphere of the place. The nearby minaret reminds us of Friday prayers, a cultural touch that enriches our experience.
We cannot deny that the poverty of the country surprised us, but the trip offered us valuable lessons in humility and gratitude.
Aswan, 15th day of travel.
Abu Simbel is truly spectacular, far beyond expectations. A 300 km long lake in the heart of the desert is something unique.
The majesty of the two temples is truly unique. The statues of Ramesses II are imposing and severe, and the interior of the temple is no different.
The journey, although long, is a beautiful journey in the middle of the desert.
Although it is the huge statues on the façade that concentrate all the eyes, the interior is also extremely majestic, with this parade of eight colossi of almost 10 meters depicting Osiris with the features of Ramesses II.
Abu Simbel is truly spectacular, far beyond expectations. A 300 km long lake in the heart of the desert is something unique.
The majesty of the two temples is truly unique. The statues of Ramesses II are imposing and severe, and the interior of the temple is no different.
The journey, although long, is a beautiful journey in the middle of the desert.
Although it is the huge statues on the façade that concentrate all the eyes, the interior is also extremely majestic, with this parade of eight colossi of almost 10 meters depicting Osiris with the features of Ramesses II.
These statues are each more beautiful than the other, and invite you to linger carefully. The rest of the temple is also interesting, with a number of ornate rooms.
The façade of the temple dedicated to Ramesses II undoubtedly remains one of the indelible memories of our trip.
In the evening we toured the souk, and we bought a statue of Bastet that will weigh at least 10 kilos. Moreover, usual bargaining of at least half an hour with the seller. The statue is nice, but at first we had doubts. We must admit, however, he makes a good impression in the room.
In the evening we toured the souk, and we bought a statue of Bastet that will weigh at least 10 kilos. Moreover, usual bargaining of at least half an hour with the seller. The statue is nice, but at first we had doubts. We must admit, however, he makes a good impression in the room.
Aswan, 17th day of travel
Last day in Egypt.
This morning we visited the temple of Philae, in the basin of the old dam. You can get there by boat, after a short taxi ride. In fact, this temple, like Abu Simbel, was also moved, as the islet of Philae was covered by water already following the construction of the first dam.
Last day in Egypt.
This morning we visited the temple of Philae, in the basin of the old dam. You can get there by boat, after a short taxi ride. In fact, this temple, like Abu Simbel, was also moved, as the islet of Philae was covered by water already following the construction of the first dam.
The monumental complex is very nice, without too many tourists. Unfortunately, the visit time is limited, because the boat waits a maximum of a couple of hours to bring us back to shore. However, it is enough to appreciate its beauty, as well as the timeless charm of this islet on the Nile.
After lunch we went to the Old Cataract, the historic hotel where Agatha Christie wrote and set "Murder on the Nile". It is a beautiful structure, in Moorish style, and everything seems to come out of a movie: the environments, the people, the view. You are catapulted into another dimension, where the chaos of the city is imperceptible.
The village where we are staying, on the contrary, looks like a nativity scene: the small, rectangular houses, with a few small domes. The sandy roads. The dunes immediately behind. Sometimes even dromedaries. It's perfect.
What will we take away from Egypt?
The journey into Africa, taking a look beyond the Maghreb, the villages on the outskirts of Luxor and Aswan that seem to come out of a documentary, the chaos of the cities packed with cars that do nothing but trumpet, a continuous background noise, the insistence of people who stubbornly try to sell anything, and who ask for a tip for anything. And then yes, the thousand-year history.
The village where we are staying, on the contrary, looks like a nativity scene: the small, rectangular houses, with a few small domes. The sandy roads. The dunes immediately behind. Sometimes even dromedaries. It's perfect.
What will we take away from Egypt?
The journey into Africa, taking a look beyond the Maghreb, the villages on the outskirts of Luxor and Aswan that seem to come out of a documentary, the chaos of the cities packed with cars that do nothing but trumpet, a continuous background noise, the insistence of people who stubbornly try to sell anything, and who ask for a tip for anything. And then yes, the thousand-year history.
